(option to) use `nix build` instead of `nix-build`

[f0x52]

I'm not really up to date on the differences between the nix-* and nix * commands, but I quite liked the nicer progress reports given by the nix * tooling, so I was a bit sad to find out it was reverted in #175

Now that 22.05 has Nix 2.8.1, and upstream has 2.10.3, can the earlier revert be re-evaluated? From limited testing in a local fork, reverting 31e425c seems to still just work

[srhb]

I liked them too. However, given the many weird issues we ran into plus the experimental (and, reasonably, changing) nature of the nix * commands, I am not particularly sold on attempting this just yet.